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City of Elgin Heritage Commission Design Review Subcommittee Met June 8

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City of Elgin Heritage Commission Design Review Subcommittee Met June 8.

Here is the minutes provided by the subcommittee:

The meeting of the Design Review Subcommittee was called to order at 6:00 p.m. in the City  Council Chambers (Located on the 2nd floor of City Hall) by Chairman Savel. 

MEMBERS PRESENT:  

Joey Crist, Krissy Palermo, Dennis Roxworthy, Scott Savel, Carly Steurer, and John Wiedmeyer. 

MEMBERS ABSENT: 

Rebecca Hunter 

CITY STAFF PRESENT:  

Christen Sundquist, Historic Preservation; and Cindy Walden, DRSC Secretary 

APPROVAL OF MINUTES: 

Motion made by Committee Member Crist to approve the minutes of May 25, 2021, with the  following change: Page 3: roof not room. 

The motion was seconded by Committee Member Palermo. 

The motion passed unanimously. 

RECOGNIZE OTHER PERSONS PRESENT: 

None  

PROPERTIES ON AGENDA FOR DISCUSSION: 

Old Business 

None  

New Business 

434 Park Street – Installation of Hardiboard Siding and Recreation of Missing Architectural  Features 

426 Villa Street – Re-review of Existing Siding on Home 

343 St. Charles Street – Reconstruction of Rear Wood Stairs 

116 Hill Avenue – Replacement and Installation of New Windows at 1970s Rear Addition 

ITEMS TABLED AT TONIGHT’S MEETING: 

None 

NEW BUSINESS: 

434 Park Street – Installation of Hardiboard Siding and Recreation of Missing Architectural  Features 

The applicant has submitted a Certificate of Appropriateness (COA) to install cedar clapboard  siding or hardiboard siding on the house and replace any missing architectural features. The  house was formerly clad with aluminum siding.  

Staff conducted a site assessment on May 24, 2021. At that time the east elevation substitute  siding was removed. It was found that the original siding, overall, was no longer present. There  was evidence of lathe, however, at the roofline, clapboard siding was found under the lathe.  The windows still have the original trim and will remain. However, the drip cap at the header  trim was removed. 

Elgin Design Guideline Manual Specifications: 

Wood Siding 

A. Should be repaired rather than replaced, if original. If replacement is necessary, wood  siding and shingles should be replaced with new cement board or shingles to match the  original in size, placement, and design. Wood that has been concealed beneath  synthetic sidings such as aluminum, asbestos, or vinyl should be repaired and the  synthetic sidings removed. Following the removal of synthetic sidings the original siding  should be repaired to match the original, caulked and painted. If the "ghosts" or outlines  of decorative missing features are revealed, these should generally be replicated and  reinstalled. If these features are not replaced they should be recorded through  photographs or drawings for future replication. 

B. Should be insulated if the addition of the insulation does not result in alterations to the  siding. The creation of plugs or holes for blown-in insulation is not acceptable. 

C. Should have original asbestos shingles kept stained or painted. If asbestos shingle  siding is deteriorated or poses a health hazard, it may be removed and replaced with  wood or other substitute siding. Removal of asbestos siding should follow hazardous  material guidelines. 

D. Should not be concealed beneath synthetic materials such as vinyl, masonite, or  aluminum, if original. Original siding should also not be concealed beneath wood based  materials such as particle board, gyp board, or press board. These materials generally  do not possess textures or designs which closely match original wood siding. However,  if more than 50% of the original siding material is damaged beyond repair, or missing,  substitute materials may be applied if the following conditions are met:  

a. the existing damaged siding materials are removed prior to the installation of  substitute materials;  

b. Vinyl material is not permissible. Rather, cement board is and should be  smooth without knots and be accented with trim  

c. Finger jointed board stock is acceptable, however, natural continuous board  stock is preferable for use as siding.

The application of these materials must not result in the concealment of or removal  of original decorative detailing or trim including window and door surrounds.  However, if no trim or surrounds exist then new wood trim in the form of fascia,  corner boards, base boards, molding and windows should be installed. 

Substitute materials should match the dimensions of the original wood siding as  closely as possible. The cement board should abut the wood trim and be caulked to  prevent moisture damage. 

Paint Removal and Surface Preparation 

A. Should be performed by manual scraping or by using appropriate chemical removers. A  paint shaver may be used, but with caution so as to avoid removal of wood siding.

B. Should be performed cautiously when removing paint through heat plates or heat guns  to avoid unnecessary damage to the wood through charring or fire. 

C. Should not be removed by abrasive techniques such as sand or water blasting since this  can damage the wood and introduce moisture into the building. 

Staff Recommendation: 

Staff recommends approval of the Certificate of Appropriateness as submitted and with the  following conditions: 

Siding and Spot Replacement of Architectural Elements 

1. New siding shall be installed and shall be clear cedar (no. 1 cedar) 1/2x6 beveled with a 4”  exposure or smooth hardiboard (5.25” with 4” exposure). 

2. All replacement wood material for trim shall be no. 2 or better quality, cedar and installed  smooth side out. 

3. All deteriorated or missing trim boards, drip edge, sills, crown molding, cornerboards that  are beyond repair/missing shall match the existing in kind (size, profile, design) or match  the profiles of ghost lines, if missing. 

4. The aluminum shall be removed from all windows. 

5. A drip cap shall be installed above the windows as shown in the included specifications  from staff. 

6. Entire home shall be prepped, primed and painted. 

7. Any other details that are uncovered on the remaining elevations shall be evaluated by  staff before continuing work.  

Raul Negron (contractor) was present for tonight’s COA discussion: 

Three layers of siding were revealed (aluminum, stucco and clapboard). 

Most of the homes in the neighborhood are brick; commission indicated very monotonous. 

Appropriate siding would be 3 ½”-4” reveal with 5/4x6” corner boards; trim board must sit  proud of the siding.  

Staff to be informed as additional portions of the house are revealed; other architectural details  and/or features maybe uncovered. Salvaged clapboards could be used on one elevation. 

Contractor was reminded that although insulation on a house is good, if there is old wiring still  in the home, the walls need to “breathe” otherwise they could overheat and cause a fire.

Motion made by Committee Member Crist to approve with staff recommendations and the  following requirements: salvaged clapboards to be used on one elevation (or more). The motion was seconded by Committee Member Palermo. 

The motion passed unanimously. 

426 Villa Street – Re-review of Existing Siding on Home 

The applicant has submitted a Certificate of Appropriateness (COA) to restore the cedar  shingled siding on the house and replace any missing architectural features. The house was  formerly clad with aluminum siding.  

Staff conducted a site assessment on December 11, 2020. At that time the substitute siding was  removed. It was found that the existing cedar shingles were in good condition with select areas  in need of replacement. Other missing elements include a shortened first floor east elevation  window and half-round gutters which are now modern, k-style.  

The existing cedar shingles are not original to the home as it likely had clapboard siding. During  the assessment it was found that the clapboard siding no longer exists. However, the existing  cedar shingles were likely installed between 1930 and 1950 when the west elevation porch was  enclosed. Therefore, the siding is considered historic and a contributing feature to this home  and should be preserved. 

Powerwashing or any other abrasive cleaning and removal process is not permitted. 

Elgin Design Guideline Manual Specifications: 

Wood Siding 

A. Should be repaired rather than replaced, if original. If replacement is necessary, wood  siding and shingles should be replaced with new cement board or shingles to match the  original in size, placement, and design. Wood that has been concealed beneath  synthetic sidings such as aluminum, asbestos, or vinyl should be repaired and the  synthetic sidings removed. Following the removal of synthetic sidings the original siding  should be repaired to match the original, caulked and painted. If the "ghosts" or outlines  of decorative missing features are revealed, these should generally be replicated and  reinstalled. If these features are not replaced they should be recorded through  photographs or drawings for future replication. 

B. Should be insulated if the addition of the insulation does not result in alterations to the  siding. The creation of plugs or holes for blown-in insulation is not acceptable.

C. Should have original asbestos shingles kept stained or painted. If asbestos shingle  siding is deteriorated or poses a health hazard, it may be removed and replaced with  wood or other substitute siding. Removal of asbestos siding should follow hazardous  material guidelines. 

D. Should not be concealed beneath synthetic materials such as vinyl, masonite, or  aluminum, if original. Original siding should also not be concealed beneath wood based materials such as particle board, gyp board, or press board. These materials generally  do not possess textures or designs which closely match original wood siding. However,  if more than 50% of the original siding material is damaged beyond repair, or missing,  substitute materials may be applied if the following conditions are met:  

a) the existing damaged siding materials are removed prior to the installation of  substitute materials;  

b) Vinyl material is not permissible. Rather, cement board is and should be  smooth without knots and be accented with trim  

c) Finger jointed board stock is acceptable, however, natural continuous board  stock is preferable for use as siding. 

The application of these materials must not result in the concealment of or removal  of original decorative detailing or trim including window and door surrounds.  However, if no trim or surrounds exist then new wood trim in the form of fascia,  corner boards, base boards, molding and windows should be installed. 

Substitute materials should match the dimensions of the original wood siding as  closely as possible. The cement board should abut the wood trim and be caulked to  prevent moisture damage. 

Paint Removal and Surface Preparation 

A. Should be performed by manual scraping or by using appropriate chemical removers. A  paint shaver may be used, but with caution so as to avoid removal of wood siding. 

B. Should be performed cautiously when removing paint through heat plates or heat guns to  avoid unnecessary damage to the wood through charring or fire. 

C. Should not be removed by abrasive techniques such as sand or water blasting since this can  damage the wood and introduce moisture into the building. 

Staff Recommendation: 

Staff recommends approval of the Certificate of Appropriateness as submitted and with the  following conditions: 

Roof 

1. If spot replacement of the roof, the new shingles shall match the existing as close as  possible and blend in so that they are not noticeable; 

2. If full replacement, then the roof shall have architectural shingles in a darker color; 3. Any flashing at the chimney shall be stepped flashing in a dark metal color; 4. Gutters shall be half-round gutters, painted metal to match fascia color, no more than 6”  in diameter with hangers installed under shingles. 

Siding and Spot Replacement of Architectural Elements 

1. Damaged siding shall be repaired, epoxy preferred 

2. Nail holes must be patched with putty, epoxy preferred. 

3. New siding shall be installed only as necessary with replacements-in-kind (clear cedar) to  match the original shingles in profile, size and design.  

4. All replacement wood material for trim shall be no. 2 or better, cedar and installed smooth  side out.

5. All deteriorated trim boards, drip edge, and sills that are beyond repair shall match the  existing in kind (size, profile, design) or match the profiles of ghost lines, if missing. 6. The aluminum shall be removed from all windows, facia and soffit; 

7. Entire home shall be prepped, primed and painted. 

Windows 

1. The first floor windows at the east elevation, shall be 2 double-hung windows spaced with  a 5 inch trim piece at the center; 

2. These windows shall fit into the original window opening; 

3. They shall be wood or aluminum-clad wood insert windows with the approved sash  dimensions: 3” bottom rail, 2” stiles, 2” top rail and 1” meeting rail. 

4. The trim shall match the trim at the 2nd floor east elevation windows. 

5. Sills that need to be replaced shall have a minimum of a 5 degree slope; 7 degree slope is  preferred as long as the exterior appearance of the sill remains as close as possible to the  original sills. Sills to be of treated wood (kiln dry wood preferred) or cedar. 

6. Wood windows shall be restored including new ropes, weather stripping, locks if needed,  and use of wood epoxy and filler if needed.  

7. The arched windows at the west elevation shall be repaired and new storm windows that  are arched and fit within the existing window opening. 

8. All windows to be prepped, primed and painted. 

Jose Solis of ABP Remodeling (contractor) was present for tonight’s COA discussion: Contractor is aware that if the clapboard siding is revealed, it will need to be repaired. There  may be architectural details/features that will need to be replicated. 

Commission acknowledged that cedar shingle siding homes are greater than 40-50 years old. 

Motion made by Committee Member Wiedmeyer to approve with staff recommendations and  the following requirements: 1) remove cedar shingle siding, and 2) staff needs to complete an  assessment regarding the % of damaged clapboard siding. If staff deems the siding greater  than 50% damaged, then the project must be returned to the commission for further  consideration. 

The motion was seconded by Committee Member Crist. 

The motion passed unanimously. 

343 St. Charles Street – Reconstruction of Rear Wood Stairs 

The applicant has submitted a Certificate of Appropriateness (COA) to reconstruct the rear  stoop stairs in wood and new handrails.  

The current stairs at the rear stoop are wood and in disrepair. The owner is requesting to  remove the stairs and construct wood stairs that meet historic district specifications. 

Elgin Design Guideline Manual Specifications: 

PORCHES 

Porch design, materials, and placement are key defining characteristics of an historic dwelling.  Original porches should be maintained and repaired where needed. Porches on the fronts of  dwellings should not be enclosed with wood or glass for additional living space. The screening  of porches on the fronts of buildings is appropriate as long as the open appearance of the porch  is maintained. If replacement of porch features is required, use materials to closely match the  original. If the original porch is missing, a new porch should be constructed based upon  photographic or physical evidence. If such evidence does not exist, base the design upon  historic porches of similar dwellings from the same time period and architectural style. In some  cases turn of the century dwellings had their original porches removed and replaced with  “modern” porches in the 1920s and 1930s which do not necessarily match the original style of  the house. If desired, these porches may be replaced with porches in keeping with the original  design; however, some of these porches have acquired significance in their own right and can  be preserved.  

Enclosing porches on the front of a house or where readily visible is not appropriate or  recommended. Front porches should not be enclosed with glass, wood siding, or other  materials. Porches on the rear or sides of dwellings may be enclosed when not readily visible  from the street and if the height and shape of the porch roof is maintained. 

Guidelines 

A. should be maintained in their original design with original materials and detailing.  B. should be repaired or replaced to match the original in design, materials, scale, and  placement.  

C. should be screened only if the structural framework for the screen panels is minimal and  the open appearance of the porch is maintained. Screen panels should be placed behind  the original features such as columns or railings and should not hide decorative details  or result in the removal of original porch materials.  

D. should have steps of the same material as the porch floor (e.g. porches with wood floors  should also have steps made of wood, not concrete or brick).  

E. should have poured concrete steps if the porch, patio or terrace floor is made of  concrete (see section on Porch Steps).  

F. should have wood tongue and groove flooring running perpendicular to the façade, if  the porch floor is made of wood.  

G. should have trellises made of wood, if trellises are appropriate.  

H. should be filled in as traditional for the type and style of the house, or with decorative  wood framed skirting, vertical slats, or lattice panels, if open areas in the foundation  exist.  

I. should not be removed if original to the dwelling. 

J. should not be enclosed with wood, glass, or other materials which would alter the  porch's open appearance. 

PORCH COLUMNS AND RAILING 

Original porch columns and railings should be retained and repaired with materials to match  the original. If the original porch columns and railings are missing, replacement porch columns  and railings should be appropriate for the dwelling's architectural style and period; handrail  height and style should be determined by photographs, paint outlines, paint shadows, or similar  homes in the area.  

Porch columns often deteriorate first at the bottom next to the porch floor. If this is the case,  consider sawing off the deteriorated area and replacing this section rather than replacing the  entire column.  

A note on porch railing height: Traditionally, the height of porch railing was based on the height  of window sills within the porch, and ranged anywhere from 24 to 30 inches. This was done to  provide a clear view from the inside of the house.  

However, modern building codes require that railing heights be no less than 36 inches, with an  exception for historic properties if the lower height of the porch railing is judged by the building  official to not constitute a distinct life safety hazard in accordance with the requirements of  Section 3406 of the 2000 International Building Code – “Historic Buildings.”  

Drawings should be provided that properly integrate the porch features with the design of the  house.  

Railing height less than 36 inches high will need to be reviewed by the building official so as not  to constitute a life safety hazard.  

Guidelines 

A. should be preserved and maintained. Where repair is required, use materials to match  the original in dimensions and detailing.  

B. should be rebuilt in historic designs if the original columns and railings have been  removed or replaced.  

C. should have new balusters for the railing, if required. Porch balusters (also called  spindles) should be appropriate for the building's style and period. The height of the  railing should be in line with the window sill level, if present, and no greater than 30  inches in height.  

Staff Recommendation: 

Staff would not recommend approval as submitted as the design is not appropriate for the age  and style of the house.

Staff would recommend approval with the following conditions: 

1. The handrail shall have a 2x6 ripped down to 4” width, beveled, minimum 10 degrees,  ¾” cove or ¾” coved subrail, 2x2 (1 ½” x 1 ½” actual) square balusters with sharp edges,  with a maximum of 2” spacing. That the bottom rail is a 2x6 ripped down to 4” width with chamfered edges, installed 3” above finished floor. 

2. The handrail height shall be 30 inches from the nosing of the stairs to the top of the  handrail. 

3. The skirting at the stairs shall have a 1x8 top rimboard, 1x8 vertical cornerboard, 1x4  vertical board against the house and 1x4 bottom rimboard all to be flush with stair  stringer. Install 1x4 skirting boards spaced 1 inch apart and behind the top and bottom  rimboard. 

4. That the stair treads shall be 5/4” x 12 (recommended) or 2x12 and bull-nosed on 3  sides and overhang the risers 1 1/2”. Installation of a ¾” PVC cove or treated wood cove  to be installed under stair overhang/lip overhang around all 3 sides and coped at the  ends. Pressure treated wood (not white pine) or composite material is acceptable for  the treads. Rot resistant wood shall be used for the remaining stair construction. 

5. Installation of 1x4 tongue and groove decking to extend past riser 1 ½” with ¾” cove  molding installed under lip of decking on all 3 sides. Pressure treated wood (not white  pine) or composite material is acceptable. 

6. The clear landing width shall have a depth of 3’-0”, and be approximately 5’-0” wide. 

7. That the newel posts shall be 6x6 (or a 4x4 wrapped with 1x) with post cap and base  wrap. See sketch for more specifications. 

8. All materials shall be of rot resistant wood. 

9. All materials shall be primed and painted. 

10. All other details shall match staff’s recommended sketch. 

J. Rosario Aguilera (owner) was present for tonight’s COA discussion: 

General discussion on porch details with homeowner. 

Motion made by Committee Member Roxworthy to approve as submitted with staff  recommendations. 

The motion was seconded by Committee Member Palermo. 

The motion passed unanimously. 

116 Hill Avenue – Replacement and Installation of New Windows at 1970s Rear Addition The applicant submitted a Certificate of Appropriateness request to replace 1970s’ addition  wood awning windows with Marvin Ultimate Wood Awning windows as well as install two  additional awning windows and one casement window (Marvin Ultimate Wood Casement  window), all at the rear addition.

The area for the proposed window replacement and new windows is at a rear addition  constructed in the 1970s. The current awning windows are not operable and have varying  degrees of deterioration. The installation of three new windows will be at the west and south  elevation of the addition and are not visible from the public right-of-way. The addition of three  windows is to allow for more light into the rear stairs and to allow for ventilation as the current  window at the rear stair location is fixed. 

The new windows will have the same trim and sill design to match the existing windows. The  casement window will also have similar trim styles. Four options have been included in this  packet with Option 1 or Option 2 as preferred. 

Elgin Design Guideline Manual Specifications: 

Windows 

A. Which are original should be preserved in their original location, size, and design  and with their original materials and numbers of panes (glass lights). 

B. Which are not original should not be added to primary facades or to secondary facades  where readily visible. 

C. Should be repaired rather than replaced, but if replacement is necessary, the  recommended replacement should be in-kind to match the originals in material and  design. Windows clad in aluminum or baked-on aluminum are acceptable as  replacement windows for use throughout the structure. Factors to be considered in  determining whether the severity of deterioration of windows requires replacement  shall include but not be limited to the following factors: damage, excessive weathering,  loss of soundness or integrity of the wood, deterioration due to rot or insect attack, and  cost to repair. As to the factor of the cost to repair windows, a particular window may  be permitted to be replaced rather than repaired if the estimated cost to repair the  windows is more than the estimated cost of the purchase and installation of appropriate  replacement windows.  

E. Vinyl extruded windows are not permitted for use in historic districts. 

F. Which are new should not have snap-on or flush muntins. True divided muntins are  preferred over these types of muntins which do not have the same appearance as  historic windows. New muntins which are an integral part of the window sash and  installed on both sides of the glass are preferable to snap-on simple grilles. 

G. screens and/or storms should be wood or baked-on or anodized aluminum and fit  within the window frames. 

H. that are approved for replacement may be fitted with new double-paned Low-E glass  that will improve the energy conservation on the interior. Only low-e glass that does not contain a tint should be used. 

Christen Sundquist (owner) was present for tonight’s COA discussion: 

Ms. Sundquist acknowledged that no staff comments were present due to ownership of  property. Chairman Savel indicated he will need to abstain due to conflict of interest / previous  work done on this property.

Four options were presented by the homeowner for commission consideration. Owner  acknowledged the existing openings would not be modified. This rear addition is non-visible  from a public right of way. 

Commission discussed the pros and cons of all four options presented. 

Motion made by Committee Member Wiedmeyer to approve option #1 constructed of all wood  material.  

The motion was seconded by Committee Member Palermo. 

The motion passed 5-0-1. Abstain: Savel. 

ADDITIONAL STAFF COMMENTS: 

None 

CORRESPONDENCE: 

None 

ADJOURNMENT: 

Motion to adjourn was made by Committee Member Wiedmeyer. 

The motion was seconded by Committee Member Crist. 

The motion passed unanimously. 

The meeting of the Design Review Subcommittee was adjourned at 7:44 p.m. 

https://www.cityofelgin.org/ArchiveCenter/ViewFile/Item/7388